Best of Accra

I have to admit that, on first arriving in Accra, I wasn’t all that impressed. It just seemed, to me, to be just another charmless and chaotic African metropolis. However, in the weeks I’ve been here Accra has really grown on me and I am now sad to leave. Of all the cities I’ve been to in sub-Saharan Africa, which include Khartoum, Addis Ababa, Cape Town, Durban and Johannesburg, if I were to be based long-term in any of these cities, Accra would certainly be my top choice. It may not be the most beautiful city in the world, and the appalling traffic - which can make the shortest of journeys a real ordeal  - is a real downside, but Accra is a whole lot of fun. Here is a rundown of what, in my opinion, are Accra’s best bits.

By Day…

I have to be straight with you, I’m afraid that I didn’t bother making a trip to the National Museum after hearing from friends that it probably wasn’t worth the trip. Guide books will tell you to take a trip up to the University of Ghana in East Legon, or a trip around Black Star Square or the Kwame Nkrumah memorial. I’m not sure about any of this advice. The University is in nice leafy grounds, but is probably not worth the long tro-tro journey through Accra’s traffic, unless of course you are heading over to visit friends, need to use the library, or are heading out to enjoy Legon’s nightlife.  Black Star Square, to me, was a brief photo opportunity and really not the most interesting of memorials. I felt the same way about the Kwame Nkrumah memorial, though the leafy grounds do provide a nice respite from the surrounding chaos of Old Accra.

I would also avoid frequenting the Centre for National Culture – not actually a “cultural centre” as we might understand but a tourist oriented market selling tatty souvenirs, African masks, drums and beads. Unless you have your heart set on a mask or a drum (in which case it is worth a visit), the levels of hassle is not worth the effort. A casual look around will result in you feeling completely worn out.

So that’s the stuff you might want to skip. Here is the stuff I really enjoyed:

1. Makola Market. I had a huge amount of fun shopping in Makola Market, chatting with the vendors, and browsing for fabrics. I’ve dedicated a whole post to this (see my July post ‘Fabric Shopping’). You could, and indeed I did, spend hours there. Makola Market is the best place I’ve found in Ghana to buy fabrics and designing outfits and getting them made extremely cheaply is some of the best fun you can have in Ghana.

2. La Beach. OK, so you’ll get a degree of hassle from vendors, but it’s all pretty harmless and everyone is very friendly. La Beach certainly lacks the breathtaking beauty of some of Ada (see post ‘Ada Foah’) and the spots in the west of Ghana (posts on this to come), but its Accra’s most accessible beach and the blasting reggae, chilled out vibes, and tasty fish restaurants does make this an enjoyable way to spend the day. See my July post ‘La Beach'.

3. Aburi. OK, so it’s not strictly speaking in Accra, but it’s only an hour outside and the views back to Accra are spectacular. The botanical garden is a lovely escape from urbanity. See my July post ‘Aburi'.

4. Jamestown and Usshertown. The oldest neighbourhoods of Old Accra are certainly the most interesting and definitely worth a visit. The lighthouse, the focal point of the neighbourhoods isn’t much to write home about (though, given I visited with a broken ankle I didn’t climb to the top so cannot comment on the view), but the fishing village at its base makes for worthwhile exploring (see my dedicated post on Jamestown). Usshertown is home to a variety of crumbling colonial buildings, many of which are now adorned by fascinating murals.

5. Swimming. Accra is hot, sweaty, humid and crowded. Taking a dip is therefore welcome relief, but swimming at La Beach is not advised due to rip tides and strong currents. Luckily, most upmarket hotels allow day use of their pools, where you can bask in the African sunshine and get some exercise. I used the pool at the Golden Tulip and I recommend it highly. The Golden Tulip is well located near 37 tro-tro station and the pool costs 40 cedis (£6) for day use. The pool is very clean, the changing rooms are immaculate, sun loungers and towels are available, and on the Saturday I visited there were very few other patrons. There is also an extensive food and drink menu, should you get peckish.

By Night…

I have to admit that it’s really Accra by night, rather than by day, that I’m sad to be leaving. There is an enormous amount going on when the sun goes down. Here are my favourites:

1. The Alliance Française. On both occasions that I frequented the Alliance, it did not disappoint. Both experiences were very different but equally enjoyable, and I have dedicated previous posts to them. The Alliance is probably Accra’s best live music venue and its website contains listings of up and coming events. Events are carefully selected. There is also a restaurant on site. I didn’t eat there, but it all (especially the pizzas) looked pretty delicious.

2. +233 Nightclub. Like the Alliance, this is good fun. There is a passable restaurant serving pizzas, burgers, and seafood, but all the outdoor tables are arranged around a stage where live bands play. The atmosphere at +233 is great. See my dedicated post.

3. Republic Bar and Grill. Skip the food (with the notable exception of the very tasty cassava chips) but make sure you try their hibiscus infused cocktail, the Kokoroko. Happy hours are fun on Monday and Tuesday evenings (5-8pm) but it really gets going on a Friday night, when people overflow into the streets and DJs and dancing are plentiful.

4. Afrikkiko. Opposite Flagstaff House this complex has a number of outlets. Owing to my broken ankle, I never attended the Wednesday salsa nights, but I’ve heard good things. I have however enjoyed Café Dez Amis on a Friday night, which is another pretty good live music venue (though call ahead to check – some of the music can be a bit cheesy).

Hungry?

Ghana isn’t really a place you visit for the food and after a while you might get a little fed up of the local staples of fufu, banku, and kenkey, which are all pretty heavy. Luckily, there are some really great places to eat in Accra, although all are expensive by local standards (though not when you consider how much you might spend eating out in the UK).

1. Rockefella’s. This Osu eatery is the best restaurant I’ve found in Accra (see separate post for directions and more information). The menu is enormous  - normally a bad sign – but everything my friends and I tried was delicious. However, the real draw is the fantastic sushi – some of the best I’ve ever had – made fresh on site by a Japanese sushi chef. Get a group together and enjoy the Bridge Platter of tasty rolls and salmon and tuna sashimi (200 cedi/£40). The cocktails are also not bad and shisha is also available.

2. Mamma Mia. Also in Osu, Mamma Mia serves up tasty Italian style thin crust pizza for around 30-40 cedi (£6-8). The grilled seafood platter is also very good, and extremely good value, given how much you might pay for lobster at home.

3. Khana Khazana. This tiny Indian-run restaurant, located at the back of a petrol station, is far better than you might expect from its modest exterior. All the curries are great, as are the breads. Just avoid anything milk based (eg raita or lassis) – fresh milk is hard to come by in Ghana. Condensed milk is generally used instead. 

The Golden Tulip, Mamma Mia and the Alliance Français

By Saturday I was in need of some rest so decided to spend the day at a pool where I could swim safely (La Beach is not recommended for swimming owing to strong currents and rip tides). Most of Accra’s hotel swimming pools are open for day use for a fee. I headed to the Golden Tulip, not far from 37 tro-tro station.

The Golden Tulip’s pool is calm, uncrowded and very clean, and the changing rooms are immaculate. At 40 cedis (£8) for day use, it is a bit on the pricey side but worth it if you are spending the whole day there. There is a menu with plenty of choice of food and drink for those who spend all day (prices range from 20 – 70 cedis). There are also sunloungers to relax in with a book, and towels are available free of charge.

Next I headed into Osu to meet some colleagues for dinner. Needing a break from red red and plantain, we headed to Mamma Mia, Accra’s best Italian restaurant, for delicious thin-crust pizza (around 30 cedis / £6) and mouth watering fresh lobster, prawns and calamari (70 cedis / £14).

Afterwards, as the Alliance Français had been such a success on Friday night (see previous post), we headed back there for a hip-hop concert, featuring artists from all over Africa. It blew away all expectations.

Friday night’s entertainment had been upbeat and fun, but pretty mellow and not too crowded. I had been expecting the same thing on Saturday, but was hugely mistaken. The place was packed out. You could barely move for people bouncing up and down with excitement. We had been expecting a showcase of relatively little known artists. It turned out that the line up featured some of Ghana’s, and indeed Africa’s, biggest contemporary rappers. Everyone knew the words. Girls were screaming with excitement.

We could soon see why. The quality of the hip-hop on offer was great. I will definitely be looking up some of the artists on Spotify when I get home. E.L., Gemini, Shaker, M.anifest, Sarkodie, Sargo, Kojo Cue, PK and C-Real are a few names I will definitely be taking away with me.

Alliance Français

This weekend I sought out more live music, this time heading to the Alliance Français on Friday night. AF Accra hosts occasional music performances which, being carefully selected, don’t disappoint.

The AF is both a restaurant and a concert venue, with amphitheatre style seating arranged around a reasonably sized stage. Friday’s cover, at 10 cedi (£2) was a bargain, and the music was great.

Two bands were playing, Akablay and Zohzoh. Akablay, a guitarist, is a Highlife musician who blends west Ghanaian music with east African rhythms. He was great, but it was Zohzoh who stole the show. Zohzoh’s up-tempo grooves, complete with dancers, filled the place with energy. The music was a blend of Fela Kuti inspired Afrobeat and James Brown style funk. In no time at all everyone was dancing – including myself, broken ankle and all. 

Jamestown, Usshertown, and Rockefella's, Osu

I spent Sunday taking a stroll once again through Jamestown and Usshertown. Starting from the chaotic Tema Station (see previous post) I walked down towards the High Street that follows the coastline westwards. It’s an interesting stroll that took me past the sculptured grounds of Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, the very impressive looking Supreme Court buildings, and far less impressive looking magistrates’ courts. On my stroll I also spotted a lorry delivering bathrooms by a company very pleasingly named “Van Gend & Loos”. Was this a coincidence or has someone actually made a toilet-based pun from arguably the European Court of Justice’s most important constitutional case (Van Gend en Loos v Nederlandse Administratie der Belastingen (1963),Case 26/62)?

During my stroll I enjoyed a small bag of ice cream from a street vendor. You’ll spot men pushing along small crate on the front of a bicycle. These are full of tiny plastic bags full with ice cream and frozen yoghurt. They’re tasty and only cost 1 cedi (20p).

As I got further towards the lighthouse Usshertown became more and more interesting. There are lots of old colonial buildings, now mostly wrecks, in which fantastic murals have been painted and kids play football. There are also a number of boxing clubs around, and you can see teenagers sparring outside. Opposite the lighthouse is a large playing field, which seems to be a popular venue for hosting funeral celebrations. Both times I have been down to the lighthouse I have seen crowds of people on the field, dressed in red and black, dancing and generally looking like they are having a good time.

Once at the lighthouse, I clambered down the steps onto the beach in front and rested in the shade of the friendly (though somewhat dilapidated) Jaynii Beach Bar. Just as I was making my way up the stairs I suddenly heard shouts of “Obruni! Obruni!”* I looked over and saw a crowd of small children running towards me. Unlike the kids I had encountered last week, who approached me cautiously, like a creature to be feared (see post entitled 'Jamestown'), these ones had no such trepidation. Before I knew what was happening, they had flung their arms around my legs and were jumping up and down shouting and laughing. One of them then held his hands in front of his face and started miming taking a photo. Obligingly, I took my camera from my bag and the kids immediately lined up and started practicing their poses. They then crowded around to see the finished product on digital display and looked very pleased with themselves. Here they are:

Later on, I headed to Osu to meet up with new friends and watch the World Cup Final. We went to a bar called Rockefella’s, just off of Oxford Street on 6^th Street (opposite the petrol station, just past Sarah’s Fabrics). It’s a really nice place to relax, with an outdoor seating area, which on Friday night was crowded around a large screen TV showing the match. I had already eaten before arriving but soon wished I hadn’t. Rockefella’s is, surprisingly, a sushi restaurant, and the sushi looked great. Accra’s restaurant scene is turning out to be far more cosmopolitan than I had anticipated!

* “White person! White person!”

+233 Jazz Club

It was my second Friday night in Ghana and after a week of working on reports in to LGBT rights, disability in Ghana, and the Ghanaian Constitutional Review, it was time to relax and try and find some live music to enjoy.

We succeeded.

A few colleagues and I headed to +233 Jazz Bar and Grill (named for some reason after Ghana’s international dialling code) in the North Ridge neighbourhood of Ghana. We had called in advance to check what was on and how much entry was, but didn’t manage to get through. So we chanced it.

+233 is not cheap by local standards, with a cover of 20 cedis (around £4), but is a very pleasant place to spend an evening. It’s entirely outdoors - so avoid when it’s raining and bring mosquito repellent – which means that it’s a great place to enjoy the warm evening breeze. The tables and chairs are arranged around a large stage area, with some space for dancing in the front (although no one got up to dance until around 11pm – primarily this is a place to listen).

+233’s food, though not likely to win any Michelin stars any time soon, provides a break from fufu, kenkey and rice, and my vegetarian pizza wasn’t at all bad. Mains range from around 20 – 55 cedis (£4 – 11) and options range from pizza to burgers to lobster. There is also an extensive cocktail menu (be warned, they are strong).

Friday night’s music, which kicked off around 20.30 wasn’t really jazz – more a selection of old Motown hits and some newer R n B. The band and singers, though, couldn’t be faulted.

All and all, the atmosphere at +233 reminded me of being at a wedding – such was the style of band, arrangement of tables, and awkward shy dancing. Not a jazz club par excellence, but an enjoyable way to spend an evening.

Republic, Osu

Accra is renowned for its nightlife. Having a broken ankle I wasn’t particularly keen on going dancing, but I was keen to sample the bar scene that Accra is now famous for. So I joined my colleagues for drinks after work.

It seems that Friday is the day that Ghanaian office workers shun formal office attire in favour of traditional African dress. This meant that everyone in the office looked absolutely brilliant. Next to the colourful prints and impeccably tailored, sculptured dresses, my black skirt and navy shirt looked drab to say the least. Nevermind. That wouldn’t stop me going out, especially when I had France v Germany to tune into, and a host of brand new work-mates to get to know.

So I went with a number of my new colleagues into Osu. Osu is the best place in the city to find bars and restaurants. We all settled into Republic, a small bar just off of Oxford Street, in the heart of Osu. If any travellers to Ghana stumble upon this blog when looking for recommendations for places to eat and drink, I would heartily recommend Republic to them. Trendy, but extremely laid back, this little red bar with plenty of outdoor seating didn’t disappoint. The staff were friendly, the large outdoor screen satisfied all my World Cup viewing needs, and the hibiscus cocktail was delicious and cheap. And don’t miss the fried cassava. Yum.